One thing to check is if there's enough room to get an armorer's wrench between the lock ring and the barrel nut scallops. Well, in that case I would try leaving the Loctite unmolested and maybe you can get the whole thing to reinstall as you found it. Looks like we would need to buy the Gem State Armorers wrench as you indicated or take to a gunssmith. I think my friend would like to keep the free float sleeve and the original A2 handguard. If the DCM float tube is undamaged you could sell it on the EE. Maybe that would be of benefit to you, then you would just abandon the float tube and use whatever the plan is for a forearm and a different barrel nut. If you don't hold the barrel nut (with the appropriate armorer's wrench) against the strap wrench on the float tube and the Loctite cooked, the whole thing will come off as an assembly. No, the float tube and barrel nut are two separate pieces, but this type of barrel nut is only used with a DCM float tube. You also need a good strap wrench and a means to apply heat to the Loctite to release it. Do not use the type that just holds the takedown pins or this could end badly. Hell no, you don't use a pipe wrench unless your intention is to trash the float tube. I see some red locktight on the nut but does the FF tube spin off counter clock wise? Do i simple use a pipe wrench to remove the FF tube? My problem is the entire tube itself and how does it attach to the barrel nut. I am able to get the nut loose that appears to hold the FF tube. Further inspection is that there seems to be a nut that attaches to the barrel nut that can be loosen and tightened. there is a FF tube that encases the barrel that are as long as the handguard. I discovered that I'm not familiar with this setup. He wanted to swap the carry handle upper for a flat top upper so that he can mount a ACOG for his Dad instead of using the factory carry handle rear sight.

A buddy of mine has a RRA NM 20' rifle with a factory free float tube/sleeve and hand guard step-up.

Ar15 free float tube